The miracle of miso

Miso paste is a miracle of Japanese cuisine!

What is miso?

Miso is a traditional Japanese condiment. It is a paste made by fermenting soybeans with salt and kōji (Aspergillus oryzae fungus). Besides soybeans, rice, barley, seaweed or other ingredients are also used for fermentation. It is used to make sauces and spreads, and to pickle vegetables, fish or meat. In our country, the best known use is in combination with dashi broth as miso soup, a staple of Japanese cuisine. Miso is high in protein, rich in vitamins and minerals and has an important nutritional role in Japan. Miso is widely used in Japan in both traditional and modern cuisine, gaining interest worldwide. Typical miso is salty, but its taste and flavour depend on the ingredients and the fermentation process. Different types of miso can be described as salty, sweet, earthy, fruity and spicy.

History

The origin of Japanese miso is not entirely clear. Grain and fish miso was made in Japan ages ago. It is called jōmon miso and resembles the first fish and soy-based sauces that were made throughout East Asia. The predecessor of the present one probably arrived in Japan at the same time as Buddhism in the sixth century AD. This fermented food was called shi. In ancient times, a common meal consisted of a bowl of rice, dried fish, a serving of miso and fresh vegetables. Later, Buddhist monks discovered that soy beans could be ground into a paste, and so new cooking methods were developed in which miso is now used to flavour other dishes. In the Middle Ages, the word temaemiso, meaning homemade miso, appeared. Since the production of miso is relatively simple, homemade versions have spread throughout Japan. In the Edo period (1603-1868), miso was also called hishio and kuki. During this time, different types of miso were created throughout Japan to suit different local conditions and cultures. Today, miso is produced industrially in large quantities and traditional homemade miso has become rare. In recent years, many new types of miso have emerged, including those made from beans other than soybeans or with reduced salt content for health reasons.

Production

Any mixture of soybeans, barley, rice, buckwheat, millet, rye, wheat, hemp seed, cassava and others can be used to make miso. Recently, manufacturers in various countries have also started selling miso made from chickpeas, corn, azuki beans, amaranth and quinoa. Fermentation times range from as little as five days to several years. The wide variety of Japanese miso is difficult to classify, but it is commonly done by grain type, color, flavor, and origin. Many regions have their own specific variant of the miso standard. For example, the soybeans used in Sendai miso are much coarser than in regular soybean miso. Miso made with rice, such as shinshu miso and shiro miso, is called kome miso.

Types of miso and taste

The taste, aroma, texture and appearance of miso vary according to region and season. Other important variables that contribute to the taste of a particular miso include temperature, length of fermentation, salt content, kōji variety and fermentation vessel. The most common miso flavour categories are:

Shiromiso- or white miso is the most widely used miso. The main ingredients are rice, barley and a small amount of soybeans. Compared to red miso, white miso has a very short fermentation time. The taste is sweet and the umami is mild or light (compared to red miso).  

Akamiso- or red miso is sometimes aged for more than one year. As a result of the ageing process, the colour gradually changes from white to red. The characteristic flavour features are saltiness and a certain astringency with umami. It is usually a miso with a stronger flavour.

Kome miso-or 'rice miso'-can be yellow, yellow-white, red, etc. Whitish miso is made from cooked soybeans and reddish miso is made from cooked soybeans.

Mugi miso-or 'barley miso'-is whitish miso, while another reddish miso, mugi, is produced in the northern Kanto region. Mugi miso has a special aroma.

Mame miso or 'soy miso' is darker, reddish brown than kome miso. It is not as sweet as some other varieties, but has a certain tartness and good umami. This miso requires a long maturation period.

Miso Chōgō or Awase- or "mixed miso" is made in many varieties because it is a mixture of other types of miso. This can improve the weaknesses of each type of miso. For example, miso mame is very salty, but when combined with miso kome, the resulting product has a mild flavor.

The most common types of miso are white and red (shiromiso and akamiso) but other local types may be preferred in different areas of Japan. The range of different types is very extensive but you will not encounter the vast majority here. You can find the different types of miso paste here.

Fermentation

The unique properties and flavour profile of miso are due to the compounds that are formed during the fermentation process. Depending on the variety, miso consists of a starter culture called koji, soybeans and usually cereals (rice, barley or rye). Miso undergoes a two-step process: first the koji is formed and then the koji is combined with the other ingredients and the mixture is left to ferment and mature.

The production of koji

Koji is made by transferring the Aspergillus oryzae mould to steamed white rice. This mould culture comes from dried spores of A. oryzae, called tane-koji or 'starter koji', which are isolated from plant matter (usually rice) and cultured.

Storage and preparation

Miso is usually supplied as a paste in a sealed container that needs to be refrigerated after opening. Natural miso is a living food containing many beneficial microorganisms, such as Tetragenococcus halophilus, which can be destroyed by overcooking. For this reason, miso should be added to soups or other prepared foods just before they are removed from the heat.

 Uses

Miso is a component of many Japanese dishes. It is most commonly found as the main ingredient in miso soup, which is eaten daily by a large portion of the Japanese population. The combination of plain rice and miso soup is considered a cornerstone of Japanese cuisine. Miso soup is a staple of the traditional Japanese breakfast. Miso is used in many other types of soups and soup-like dishes, including some types of ramen, udon, nabe and imoni. These dishes usually have a miso prefix before the name (for example, miso-udon). Many traditional sweets use a sweet, thick miso topping, such as mochi and dango. Sweets with miso glaze are strongly associated with Japanese festivals but are available in supermarkets all year round.

Other foods that include miso include, for example

dengaku (molasses-sweetened miso used for grilling)

yakimochi (charcoal-grilled mochi covered in miso).

Vegetables or mushrooms sautéed in miso

marinades: fish or chicken can be marinated overnight in a combination of miso and rice wine and then grilled.

In Japan, corn cobs are often brushed with miso shiro, wrapped in foil and grilled.

Sauces: sauces such as misoyaki (a variant of teriyaki).

dips: used as a dip for vegetables (e.g. cucumbers, daikon, carrots, etc.).

side dishes: miso is often eaten not only as a condiment but also as a side dish. Mixed or cooked miso with spices or vegetables is called okazu-miso and is often eaten with hot rice or spread on onigiri.